If you’re lucky enough to have a money tree (Pachira aquatica) in your home, you know it’s more than just a pretty foliage plant—it’s a symbol of good fortune, prosperity, and easygoing indoor greenery. But what do you do when your money tree outgrows its spot, or you want to share its luck with friends? The answer: stem cutting propagation!

Propagating a money tree via cuttings is a budget-friendly, rewarding way to expand your plant collection, and it works beautifully with three tried-and-true methods: soil, perlite, and water. As someone who’s propagated dozens of money trees (and fixed my fair share of failed cuttings!), I’m breaking down every step—from tools to troubleshooting—to help you succeed, even if you’re a beginner. Let’s dive in!

First: The Prep Work (Critical for Success!)

Before you grab your pruners, let’s cover the basics. Skipping these steps is the #1 reason cuttings rot or fail to root—trust me, I’ve been there.

1. Choose the Right Mother Plant

Your cutting’s success starts with a healthy parent. Look for a money tree with:

Glossy, firm leaves (no yellowing, brown spots, or wilting—these are signs of stress or disease).

Thick, green stems (avoid thin, leggy growth, which is weaker and less likely to root).

Active growth (spring or early summer is ideal—this is when the plant’s hormones are primed for rooting. Winter propagation works too, but it’ll take longer).

2. Gather Tools (And Sanitize Them!)

Dirty tools spread bacteria and fungi—two enemies of fresh cuttings. Here’s what you need:

A sharp pair of pruning shears or clean scissors (dull tools crush stems, slowing healing).
Rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide (to sanitize tools—wipe blades thoroughly before and after use).

Optional: Rooting hormone (not mandatory, but it speeds up root growth, especially for slower cuttings).

Containers: Small pots (for soil/perlite) or clear glass jars (for water—transparency lets you monitor roots).

3. Take the Perfect Cutting

This is where precision matters. Follow these steps:

Locate a “node”—the small, bumpy spot on the stem where leaves or new growth emerge (roots grow from nodes, so you need at least one!).

Cut 4–6 inches below the node (your cutting should have 1–2 nodes total). Make a clean, diagonal cut—this increases the surface area for rooting.

Remove the bottom 1–2 leaves (leave 1–2 at the top—too many leaves drain moisture, too few slow photosynthesis).

Let the cutting “callus” (dry out) for 12–24 hours. This is non-negotiable! A dry, scabbed end prevents rot when you plant it—skip this, and your cutting will turn mushy.

Method 1: Soil Propagation (Most Reliable for Beginners)

Soil is the classic choice for money tree cuttings—it mimics the plant’s natural growing environment and reduces the risk of overwatering (compared to water). Here’s how to do it right:

Step 1: Mix the Right Soil

Money trees hate soggy roots, so your soil needs to be well-draining. Skip regular potting soil (it’s too dense!)—instead, make this blend:

3 part perlite (adds air pockets—critical for root health)

1 part vermiculite (optional, but helps with water retention)

6 part regular potting soil

A pinch of slow-release fertilizer (optional—too much fertilizer burns new roots, so go light!).

Moisten the soil slightly before planting—think “damp sponge,” not soaking wet.

Step 2: Plant the Cutting

Fill a small pot (4–6 inches wide) with your soil mix. Poke a 1–2 inch hole in the center (this prevents the cutting from rubbing off rooting hormone, if you use it).

If using rooting hormone: Dip the callused end of the cutting in the powder, tapping off excess (too much clogs pores).

Place the cutting in the hole, making sure the bottom node is buried (roots grow from here!). Gently press soil around the stem to hold it upright—no wiggling!

Water lightly to settle the soil, but don’t drench it. The soil should stay slightly moist, not wet.

Step 3: Care for the Cutting (Until Roots Grow!)

Now, patience is key. Roots take 4–6 weeks to form—here’s how to keep your cutting happy:

Light: Place it in bright, indirect light (a north or east-facing window is perfect). Direct sun burns new growth; too little light slows rooting.

Temperature: Keep it warm—65–75°F (18–24°C) is ideal. Avoid drafty spots (like near doors or AC vents) or cold windowsills.

Humidity: Money trees love humidity! If your home is dry (common in winter), set the pot on a tray of pebbles filled with water (don’t let the pot touch the water—this prevents root rot). You can also mist the leaves once a week (avoid misting the soil).

Watering: Check soil moisture every 3–4 days. Water only when the top 1 inch of soil feels dry. Overwatering is the #1 killer here—err on the side of underwatering.

How to Know It’s Rooted

After 4 weeks, gently tug the cutting. If you feel resistance, roots are growing! You can also check for new leaf growth—this is a sign the cutting is taking in nutrients from new roots. Once roots are 2–3 inches long (you can gently lift the cutting to peek), it’s ready to be potted in a slightly larger container with regular money tree soil.

Method 2: Perlite Propagation (Best for Avoiding Rot)

Perlite—those light, white, porous balls—might seem like a weird choice, but it’s a game-changer for propagation. It’s sterile, drains perfectly, and lets air circulate around roots, making it nearly impossible for cuttings to rot. This method is great if you’ve struggled with soil rot in the past.

Step 1: Prep the Perlite

Rinse the perlite first! It often comes with fine dust that clogs pores. Place it in a colander and run water over it until the water runs clear.

Let it drain for 10–15 minutes—you want it damp, not soaking.

Step 2: Plant in Perlite

Use a small, well-draining container (terracotta works best— it breathes, so perlite dries out evenly). Fill it ¾ full with rinsed perlite.

Make a hole in the center with your finger or a pencil (1–2 inches deep).

Place the callused cutting in the hole, ensuring the bottom node is covered by perlite.

Gently press perlite around the stem to stabilize it.

Mist the perlite lightly to settle it—again, no soaking.

Step 3: Perlite Propagation Care

Perlite dries out faster than soil, so you’ll need to check it more often—but the care is similar to soil:

Light: Bright, indirect light (same as soil—no direct sun!).

Temperature: 65–75°F (18–24°C)—consistency is key.

Moisture: Mist the perlite every 1–2 days to keep it damp. If it dries out completely, roots will stop growing; if it’s too wet, perlite loses its airiness.

Humidity: Same as soil—use a pebble tray or mist leaves to boost humidity.

When to Transplant

Perlite is a “temporary home”—it doesn’t have nutrients, so you’ll need to transplant once roots form. After 3–5 weeks, check for roots by gently lifting the cutting. When roots are 1.5–2 inches long (they’ll be white and fuzzy—normal!), transplant into a pot with the soil mix from Method 1. Water lightly after transplanting to help roots adjust.

Method 3: Water Propagation (Most Fun to Watch!)

Water propagation is my favorite—there’s nothing like watching tiny white roots sprout from the stem! It’s also great for kids or anyone who loves seeing progress. The catch? You have to be careful with rot, but with these steps, it’s easy.

Step 1: Choose the Right Container

Use a clear glass jar or vase—transparency lets you monitor roots and check for rot. The container should be tall enough to hold the cutting upright, with the bottom 1–2 inches submerged in water.

Step 2: Prep the Water

Tap water has chlorine, which can harm new roots. Let water sit out for 24 hours to let chlorine evaporate, or use filtered water. Fill the container so the bottom node is submerged—but only the node! If the stem above the node is in water, it will rot.

Step 3: Care for Water Cuttings

Water propagation is low-maintenance, but these tips keep roots healthy:

Light: Bright, indirect light (direct sun heats the water, which encourages algae and rot).

Temperature: 65–75°F (18–24°C)—cold water slows rooting.

Water Changes: Change the water every 2–3 days (or sooner if it looks cloudy). When changing water, rinse the container to remove algae (algae steals oxygen from roots).

Rooting Hormone: Optional, but dip the callused end in liquid rooting hormone before placing in water for faster growth.

No Fertilizer: Wait to add fertilizer until roots are 2 inches long—too early burns new roots.

When to Transplant to Soil

Roots grow faster in water (1–2 weeks!), but they’re delicate—so transplant carefully:

Wait until roots are 2–3 inches long (they’ll be white and slightly fuzzy). If roots get longer than 4 inches, they’ll be harder to transplant.

Prepare a small pot with the soil mix from Method 1 (moisten it first).

Gently remove the cutting from water—don’t pull or twist the roots.

Plant it in the soil, covering the roots completely. Press soil lightly around the stem.
Water thoroughly after transplanting (this helps soil stick to roots) and place in bright, indirect light. For the first 1–2 weeks, keep the soil slightly moist to help roots adjust to soil.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even with perfect steps, things can go wrong. Here’s how to fix the most common issues:

1. Cutting Rotting (Mushy Stem/Black Spots)

Cause: Too much moisture (wet soil/perlite, water covering too much stem) or uncallused cutting.

Fix: Cut off the rotted part with sanitized tools, leaving only healthy tissue. Let the new end callus for 24 hours, then restart with fresh soil/perlite/water.

2. No Roots After 6+ Weeks

Cause: Too cold (below 60°F), not enough light, or cutting was too weak (thin stem/no nodes).

Fix: Move the cutting to a warmer spot with more indirect light. If it’s still not rooting, try a new cutting from a healthier part of the mother plant.

3. Leaves Wilting/Yellowing

Cause: Too little humidity, too much sun, or underwatering (soil/perlite) or overwatering (water propagation).

Fix: Mist leaves, move to shadier spot, or adjust watering (check soil moisture more often, or change water more frequently).

Final Thoughts

Propagating a money tree via cuttings isn’t just about growing new plants—it’s about connecting with your greenery and sharing joy (and good luck!) with others. Whether you choose soil, perlite, or water, remember: patience is key. Roots take time, but with the right care, you’ll soon have a collection of money trees to fill your home (or gift to friends!).

Have you tried propagating a money tree before? Let me know in the comments— I’d love to hear your tips or success stories! Happy planting, and may your new money trees bring you plenty of prosperity (and greenery)!