If you’ve ever wandered through a home goods store or nursery in the U.S., you’ve likely spotted the Pachira aquatica—better known as the Money Tree. With its braided trunk, glossy green palm-like leaves, and reputation for bringing good fortune (a belief rooted in Feng Shui, now beloved by American plant parents), it’s no wonder this plant has become a staple in living rooms, offices, and even dorm rooms. But while the Money Tree is often labeled “low-maintenance,” keeping it thriving long-term takes more than just occasional waterings. In this guide, we’ll break down everything you need to know to care for your Money Tree, from mimicking its native tropical habitat to fixing common problems—so your plant stays healthy and keeps that “prosperous” vibe.

Understanding the Money Tree: Its Origins and Why It Matters for Care

Before diving into care tips, let’s start with the basics: where does the Money Tree come from, and how does that shape its needs? Native to the swamps and wetlands of Central and South America (think Mexico, Guatemala, and Brazil), Pachira aquatica evolved to grow in dappled sunlight, moist (but not waterlogged) soil, and warm, humid air. In its natural habitat, it can grow up to 60 feet tall—but as a houseplant, it’s typically pruned to stay 3–6 feet, with that iconic braided trunk (a nursery technique to enhance its aesthetic appeal).

Why does this matter? Because the biggest mistake new Money Tree owners make is treating it like a “desert plant” or overwatering it like a fern. To keep your Money Tree happy, you need to replicate its tropical, swamp-adjacent roots—without drowning it. Let’s start with how to care for money tree plant.

How to Care for Money Tree?

Light Requirements: Find the Sweet Spot (No Direct Sun!)

Money Trees thrive in bright, indirect light—and they hate direct sunlight. In their native environment, they grow under the canopy of taller trees, so harsh afternoon sun (especially in states like Arizona, Texas, or Florida) will scorch their leaves, leaving brown, crispy spots.

What “Bright Indirect Light” Actually Means

Best spots in your home: East-facing windows (morning sun is gentle, then indirect light the rest of the day) or a few feet away from a south- or west-facing window (use a sheer curtain to filter intense light).

Low-light caution: While Money Trees can tolerate low light (e.g., a north-facing window or a corner of your living room), they’ll grow slower, and their leaves may become leggy (stretched out) as they reach for light. If you notice this, move the plant closer to a light source gradually (sudden light changes can shock it).

Seasonal adjustments: In winter, when daylight hours shorten, your Money Tree may need a little extra light. If you live in northern states (like Minnesota or Maine), consider adding a grow light (set to 12–14 hours a day) to keep it healthy. Avoid placing it near cold windows—drafty air can damage leaves.

Watering: The #1 Mistake (and How to Avoid It)

Overwatering is the leading cause of Money Tree death. Because their roots are adapted to swampy soil, they can handle moisture—but not sitting in standing water. Here’s how to get watering right:

Step 1: Check Soil Moisture First

Never water on a schedule (e.g., “every Sunday”). Instead, test the soil:

Stick your finger 2–3 inches into the soil. If it feels dry to the touch, it’s time to water. If it’s still damp, wait 2–3 days and check again.

For larger pots, use a moisture meter. Aim for a reading of “dry” or “slightly moist” before watering.

Step 2: Water Correctly

Use room-temperature water (cold water shocks roots).

Pour water slowly over the soil until it drains out the bottom of the pot. This ensures the entire root ball gets hydrated (avoid just splashing water on the leaves).

Empty the saucer under the pot immediately—standing water leads to root rot (a fatal issue for Money Trees).

Step 3: Adjust for Seasons and Environment

Growing season (spring–summer): You’ll water more often (every 7–10 days, depending on light and humidity). The plant is actively growing, so it needs more moisture.

Dormant season (fall–winter): Water less frequently (every 14–21 days). Growth slows, so the plant uses less water.

Dry climates: If you live in Arizona, Nevada, or other arid areas, your soil will dry out faster—check moisture more often. Use a pebble tray (fill a tray with pebbles, add water just below the pebbles, and set the pot on top) to boost humidity around the plant.

Soil and Potting: Drainage Is Non-Negotiable

Money Trees need soil that’s well-draining but retains some moisture—think “tropical potting mix with extra drainage.” Here’s what to use:

Recommended Soil Mix

Option 1: 1 part peat moss (retains moisture), 1 part perlite (adds drainage), and 1 part orchid bark (prevents compaction).

Option 2: Buy a pre-made “tropical plant mix” or “cactus mix” (cactus mix is well-draining) and mix in 20% perlite to improve drainage further.

Choosing the Right Pot

Material: Terra-cotta (clay) pots are ideal—they’re porous, so they allow excess moisture to evaporate through the sides, reducing root rot risk. Plastic pots work too, but you’ll need to be extra careful not to overwater (they hold moisture longer).

Size: Pick a pot that’s 1–2 inches larger in diameter than the current root ball. Money Trees prefer slightly snug pots—too much extra soil holds water, which can rot roots.

Drainage holes: Non-negotiable! If you fall in love with a pot without holes, use a plastic nursery pot inside it (drill holes in the nursery pot if needed) so you can easily remove it to drain excess water.

Repotting: When and How

When to repot: Every 2–3 years, or when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes (this means the plant is root-bound). The best time is spring (before the growing season starts).

How to repot:

Gently remove the plant from its old pot (tap the sides if it’s stuck).

Loosen the root ball with your fingers—trim any brown, mushy roots (these are rotting).

Add a layer of soil to the bottom of the new pot. Place the plant in the pot so the top of the root ball is 1 inch below the pot’s rim.

Fill in around the root ball with soil, pressing lightly to remove air pockets.

Water thoroughly and place in a bright, indirect spot. Avoid fertilizing for 4–6 weeks (the plant needs time to recover).

Temperature and Humidity: Keep It Warm and Cozy

Money Trees are tropical plants, so they thrive in warm, humid conditions—just like the climates of Florida, Hawaii, or southern California. But even if you live in a colder state, you can create a suitable environment:

Ideal Temperature Range

Daytime: 65–80°F (18–27°C)

Nighttime: No lower than 55°F (13°C)

Dangers to avoid: Cold drafts (from windows, doors, or air conditioners), heaters (dry out air), and sudden temperature drops (e.g., moving the plant from a warm living room to a cold porch in winter). If your plant is near a draft, you’ll notice leaves turning yellow or dropping.

Humidity: How to Boost It (Even in Dry Homes)

Ideal humidity: 50–70% (most U.S. homes are 30–40% humid, especially in winter with heaters).

Easy fixes:

Pebble tray (as mentioned earlier): Refill water every few days.

Humidifier: Place it near the plant (but not too close—direct mist can cause leaf spots).
Group plants together: Plants release moisture through transpiration, so grouping them creates a more humid microclimate.

Proper misting leaves: Contrary to popular belief, misting Money Tree leaves can lead to fungal diseases (their leaves are prone to spots if kept wet). However, in dry areas, misting leaves is a very functional and cheap way to keep the moist.

Fertilizing: Feed It (But Don’t Overdo It)

Money Trees don’t need a lot of fertilizer, but regular feeding during the growing season will keep their leaves glossy and promote growth.

What to Use

A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10 or 20-20-20) diluted to half strength. Or use a specialized “indoor plant fertilizer” (follow the package instructions).

Avoid slow-release fertilizer pellets unless you’re experienced—they can release too much nitrogen, burning the roots.

When to Fertilize

Growing season (spring–summer): Fertilize every 4–6 weeks.
Dormant season (fall–winter): Stop fertilizing. The plant isn’t growing, so it can’t absorb the nutrients, and excess fertilizer builds up in the soil.

How to Fertilize

Water the plant lightly before fertilizing (dry soil + fertilizer = root burn).
Pour the diluted fertilizer over the soil (avoid getting it on the leaves—wipe off any spills immediately).

If you notice brown leaf tips or yellowing leaves after fertilizing, flush the soil with water (pour water through the pot until it drains out) to remove excess nutrients.

Pruning and Grooming: Keep It Shapely and Healthy

Pruning isn’t just for aesthetics—it helps your Money Tree focus energy on new growth and prevents disease.

When to Prune

Spring or early summer (during the growing season, so the plant can recover quickly).

What to Prune

Yellow or brown leaves: Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears to cut the leaf off at the base of the stem (not just the leaf tip). Yellow leaves are a sign of stress (overwatering, low light), so pruning them prevents the plant from wasting energy.

Leggy stems: If your plant is stretching toward light, cut back the longest stems to a node (the bump where leaves grow). New growth will sprout from the node.

Dead or damaged branches: Cut these off at the trunk to keep the plant looking neat and prevent pests from hiding in dead tissue.

Grooming Tips

Wipe leaves with a damp cloth every 2–3 weeks to remove dust. Dust blocks light and can attract pests (like spider mites).

Avoid using leaf shine products—they clog the leaf pores, preventing the plant from breathing.

Propagation: Grow New Money Trees for Friends (or Luck!)

Want to share your Money Tree’s good fortune? Propagating it is easy—here are two methods:

Method 1: Stem Cuttings in Perlite and Peat Moss

When to do it: Spring or summer.

Steps:

1. Cut a 6–8 inch stem from the parent plant, making the cut just below a node. Remove the bottom 2–3 leaves (leave 1–2 at the top).

2. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone (optional, but it speeds up root growth).

3. Plant the cutting in a pot filled with a mix of perlite and peat moss (1:1).

4. Cover the pot with a plastic bag (poke a few holes for air) to create a humid environment.

5. Place in bright, indirect light and keep the soil slightly moist. Roots should form in 4–6 weeks (tug gently—if you feel resistance, roots are growing!).

6. Once roots are established, remove the plastic bag and repot in regular soil.

Method 2: Water Propagation (Stem Cuttings)

When to do it: Spring or summer (when the plant is in active growth, as warmer temperatures speed up root development).

Steps:

1. Select a healthy stem from the parent plant and make a clean cut ½ inch below a node (the small bump where leaves attach—this is where roots will sprout). The cutting should be 6–8 inches long, with 1–2 leaves left at the top (remove all bottom leaves to prevent them from rotting in water).

2. Fill a clear glass or plastic container with room-temperature tap water or filtered water. Avoid using cold water, as it can shock the cutting.

3. Place the cutting in the container so the bottom 1–2 nodes are submerged in water (do not let the remaining leaves touch the water—this causes rot).

4. Set the container in a spot with bright, indirect light (e.g., near an east-facing window). Avoid direct sunlight, which can heat the water and damage the cutting.

5. Maintain the propagation: Fill the glass every 3–4 days to keep water clean and oxygenated. If you notice any slimy residue on the stem or cloudy water, rinse the cutting gently under room-temperature water before refilling the container.

6. Wait for roots to form: After 1-2 weeks, you’ll see small white roots emerging from the nodes. Once the roots grow 2–3 inches long (and have small root hairs), the cutting is ready to be transplanted (if desired) into a pot with well-draining soil. If you prefer to keep it in water long-term, switch to a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to ¼ strength every 4–6 weeks to provide nutrients.

Troubleshooting Common Money Tree Problems

Even with the best care, your Money Tree may throw a few tantrums—but most issues are easy to fix once you identify the cause. One of the most common issues you might notice is yellowing leaves, which typically stems from three main causes: underwatering or overwatering, sun burn, and over-fertilizer. To address this, start by checking the soil moisture: if the soil feels damp beyond the top 2–3 inches, hold off on watering until it dries out. If the plant is near a drafty window, door, or AC vent, move it to a more stable location where temperatures don’t fluctuate suddenly. For low-light cases, gradually relocate the Money Tree to a spot with brighter indirect light (like an east-facing windowsill) to avoid shocking the plant.

Another frequent concern is brown leaf tips, which usually signal low humidity, overfertilization, or soil that’s too dry. To fix this, first assess the humidity in your home—if it’s below 50%, add a pebble tray or humidifier near the plant (avoid misting the leaves, as this can cause fungal spots). If you’ve been fertilizing too often, flush the soil by pouring water through the pot until it drains out the bottom to remove excess nutrients. For dry soil, adjust your watering routine to check moisture levels regularly and water thoroughly when the top 2–3 inches of soil feel dry.

Wilting leaves can be confusing, as they often point to one of two opposite issues: underwatering (when the soil is bone dry) or root rot (when the soil stays consistently wet). Start by checking the soil—if it’s completely dry, water the plant thoroughly and monitor for improvement over the next day or two. If the soil is wet and the leaves are still wilting, gently remove the plant from its pot to inspect the roots: if they’re mushy and brown (instead of firm and white), trim away all rotting roots with sterile scissors, repot in fresh well-draining soil, and water sparingly while the plant recovers.

Leggy, stretched-out growth is another sign your Money Tree isn’t getting what it needs, and the primary cause here is insufficient light. When the plant doesn’t get enough bright indirect light, it will stretch its stems to reach for more, resulting in sparse, leggy growth. To correct this, move the plant to a brighter location—such as a few feet from a south- or west-facing window with a sheer curtain for filtering—or add a grow light set to 12–14 hours a day. You can also prune the longest, leggiest stems back to a node (the small bump where leaves grow) to encourage bushier new growth.

Finally, sudden leaf drop can be alarming, but it’s often a reaction to stress from sudden changes in light or temperature, overwatering, or pest infestations. To resolve this, first ensure the plant’s environment is stable—avoid moving it frequently between bright and dark spots, or from warm indoor areas to cold porches. Check the soil moisture to rule out overwatering (adjust your routine if needed) and inspect the undersides of leaves and leaf nodes for pests like spider mites or mealybugs. If you spot pests, treat them with neem oil or rubbing alcohol (as outlined in the pest control section) to stop further stress on the plant.

Final Thoughts: Care with Intention (and a Little Luck)

Caring for a Money Tree isn’t just about keeping a plant alive—it’s about creating a connection with a living thing that brings joy and symbolism to your space. Remember, there’s no “perfect” way to care for it—pay attention to its cues (yellow leaves, wilting, new growth) and adjust your routine accordingly.

Whether you’re a new plant parent or a seasoned pro, the Money Tree is a forgiving plant that rewards patience. With the tips in this guide, you’ll be able to grow a lush, healthy Money Tree that not only looks great but also brings a little extra prosperity to your home—one glossy leaf at a time.